Ideas for layering and greater attention in the selection of more informal garments, to be mixed-and matched with care, form the basic theme of the proposal for men, chosen by the Xacus shirt brand to interpret the man in the upcoming FW 2021 season. The casual shirt becomes the main player of many outfits, in a world where the formal shirt has always taken the leading role in the collection. This is a stylistic direction that embraces the public’s clearly-stated requirement for more comfort, using high-end garments designed to be worn on many different occasions. The shirt appears in a new guise: on top of thin polo-neck sweaters, over close-fitting trousers and sometimes in oversize volumes, strictly with pleats, as a substitute for a jacket or, even better, a blazer.
This trend leads us towards the merino shirt, offered in plain colours with unusual tones, drawing inspiration from the colours of forest undergrowth, in shades of green, and from metropolitan inspirations of grey, right down to the blues of city evenings. Despite the fact that we generally, and mistakenly, think of this fibre as comprising “weight and heat”, its consistency is really very fine and breathable. So these shirts can be worn over a polo-neck sweater to give a cosy feel, thanks to wool flannels that are much lighter and softer to the touch than traditional cotton shirts. Four variants of macro-checks, created in a clever mix of reds with blues and greys, are added to this large collection, which includes, at last, a casual-chic look styled to bring elegance to an outfit for leisurewear or for so-called casual Fridays in the office. The high quality of the shirts is immediately recognisable even when worn over a T-shirt or polo-neck sweater. With their glam-rock flavour, they are a stylistic customisation of British tartan by a brand that is tracing the history of modern men’s fashion, producing elegance and refinement with the accent on comfort.
Trendy patterns cover the printed shirts, from the more traditional business ones in micro version, to the more obvious ones in a more casual key; they find their finest expression in the macro floral motifs with paintbrush or embroidered effect. New combinations of colours such as beige, ochre, mustard and grey appear with orange shades, and new graphic designs are developed in the partnership with Liberty of London; there are new expressive languages in the shirts with all-over patterns – fresh and innovative, especially for the fall/winter collection.
Irresistible shirts for this season are the yarn-dyed Texan shirts in gabardine twill with polished press-studs – no longer in the predictable stonewashed fabric, but in materials with a military-chic flavour in brighter, more uniform colours, to produce a smarter and more glamorous look.
Well-defined, regimental-style stripes appear alongside the classic needlecord and houndstooth checks of the classic shirt, in a new range of patterns to wear under a jacket; combining blue and brown shades, as well as blues and reds, they are manufactured by Xacus according to the “yarn-dyed” tradition in the exclusive Active fabric. Top quality features of distinction offered by this Vicenza firm.
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