The film industry’s red-carpet season is over: from the Venice Film Festival, via AMFAR 2021, to the Rome Film Fest, the films that we’ll be seeing in cinemas over the autumn-winter season have just been “paraded” before critics, industry professionals, and the best-loved faces on TV and the big screen. The looks worn by the stars are a good indication of the direction style is moving in, and how far we can take our own creativity for cooler styles, where we are free to experiment with a range of different looks.
The red carpet also saw a host of quirky shirts, together with great elegant menswear classics, tuxedo shirts – the absolute must on any red carpet – and printed shirts with fluid fits, worn open to catch the eye and the attention of press and photographers.
For our overseas visitors, white shirts are still a must-have under a tux or a glittering, sequinned evening jacket, but this time, with added style affectations that break with every single rule of classic menswear. From shirts open mid-chest, to the mandarin collar worn under a tux, open down to the third button, and intentionally rumpled. It seems to be that the only rule for a season that is finally seeing a return to live events on a grand scale, is to abandon each and every style diktat followed until now. A clear break with the past and one that pushes us to be completely free with the way we interpret the things we wear.
In other cases, such as directors Fabio and Damiano D’innocenzo, the popular choice has fallen on silk shirts with pussy-bow, paired with a men’s suit, which now take their rightful place in male wardrobes. This is after repeated proposals from Gucci’s Creative Director, Alessandro Michele, who has decidedly revolutionised the look of this latest generation of celebrities and consumers, who have wanted to see themselves reflected in his renewed vision.
In Rome, the Italians showed a lot more reverence. Pif, actor and investigative journalist, was out in his classic Iena look [Italian TV programme] in an impeccable white shirt with bootlace tie. As ever, set designer Luca Tommassini went with avant-garde designers, choosing a white shirt with digital print. Director Quentin Tarantino gave in to the fascinating style of total black, but his black shirt was presented in a rather unkempt style, worn outside his trousers, while Johnny Depp, who can get away with most anything, arrived with his usual cowboy look, paired with an ultra-casual blue striped shirt and a series of bandanas and neck chains. And the award for elegance? Journalist Marco Mazzocchi, who wore the most classic of formal suits with a perfectly fitted shirt, waistcoat and bow tie: the absolute tribute to Italian style.
The red carpet of this last event gave us some ideas about the coming fall-winter season trends, through images of film icons, generating what is essentially an non-conformist view of the tuxedo and evening jacket in general. There's lots of free choice for the main accessory - the shirt, which is just where you can intervene to create looks that reflect your personality, from the choice of collar, to your own interpretation of style. Because, from mandarin collars to models with bold prints under a dinner jacket, this year, like never before, fashion is free to present individual styles, without worrying about the naysayers. Luckily enough, there will always be some nostalgic character with the “courage to keep on following tradition”.
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