More about shirt fabrics: Leno weave, Etamine and Jersey


Leno weave, Etamine, and Jersey are three widely used fabrics for making men’s and women’s summer shirts.
Let’s take a look at how they are made, their characteristics, and what makes them different from one another.

Leno or Waffle weave
This fabric consists of mixing two different warp threads - one is traditionally straight and the other weaves into the first, left and right, at every weft passage. This particular weave creates a hexagonal shape, the so-called waffle weave, that gives the fabric its name.
The open mesh weave gives the fabric its excellent breathability, making it perfect for hot weather, which is why Leno weave fabric is extremely popular for making men’s and women’s summer shirts. It is shiny and light to the touch as well as being notably elastic.

Its name comes from staminea, the Latin term that comes from stame, i.e., fine, resistant wool. Etamine, known as Stamigna or Stamina in Italian, is a worsted weave fabric with fine threads. It is the simplest weave there is, where the odd-numbered warp threads are raised by the passage of the odd-numbered weft threads, and the even-numbered warp threads do the same at the passage of the even-numbered weft threads. This type of weave adds notable resistance and breathability. It is lightweight, dry and voluminous. Generally this is one of the materials made entirely from cotton, which gives Etamine garments their incredibly cool feel.

Its curious particular texture means it is not exactly a woven fabric, but rather, it is a plain material, knitted instead of made on a loom with the warp and weft method. This process makes jersey particularly light, stretchy and soft, making it ideal for the creation of men’s and women’s summer shirts with an exceptional fit. Jersey can be made with any textile fibre, and the most commonly used are cotton, wool and viscose.
Its name comes from the Channel Island, where it was used by fishermen in the late 19th century, although one of the earliest users at world level was most probably Coco Chanel. It is the ideal the choice for a cool summer evening, with the utmost comfort for a shirt that because of its stretch, will follow every movement of your body.

Want to find out about which fabrics are used to make shirts?
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In the meantime, you can read our other posts on Poplin and Zephyr.

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